12 February 2008

The Coterie: a structured affair

So this...Got me into here:

No wait, here:

And once inside, I realized my Chocolate Factory comparison from last week may have been written with my tongue pressed a little too firmly in my cheek.

This place was, in all seriousness, a veritable wonderland for anyone who loves to talk, look, buy and breathe fashion.

I expected all along to gravitate toward ASJiNE standbys like Robert Rodriguez, Mint and Karen Zambos Vintage Couture, but as the hours ticked by and my red satin flats logged another lap, I found myself no longer looking for a familiar name on a placard but rather drawn toward uniquely-cut pieces, the majority of which, it turned out, came from a crop of brilliant, unfamiliar lines like Stella & Jamie, Erik Hart and Form.

Considering the volume of information and inspiration with which all this Coterie-ing hath filled my head, I decided it'd be better for you in terms of keeping your 'scroll finger' from developing a callus and for me in terms of not losing my mind trying to weave everything into a single cohesive post, that I break down my 180+ photos, my eight identified trends and my five newly-in-love-with designer discoveries into more manageable, one-per-day portions.

Today's focus is on a hugely popular trend I hope is here and here to stay: structure.

Enjoy.

Oh, and please, try to remember that a decent camera does not a decent photographer make.

From the stiff sleeves to the hard-pleated neckline to the giveless fabric - I found in this dress a piece of pure, structured perfection.
Ardistia*

The pretty party frock's perfect date -- a structured silk topper.
Biba

So strictly structured I half expected to find hinges -not a zipper- on its side.
Chace

No double-sided tape required on this securely stayin'-in-place kimono-sleeve dress.
Candela NYC

Even the handbags have lost their slouch
Jack Rabbit


What I imagine the Dita von Teese of the Victorian Age might have worn on her way home from work...
Mackage

Hervé Léger + Salvador Dali = strikingly structured strapless.
Iódice

The wearable-for-work version of Miu Miu's Spring '08 structured runway skirt
Chloe & Reese

And because I'm an unabashed fan of reality TV and all the people it has launched into semi-stardom, looksies at whosies I bumped into while making my way over to the Anlo booth:
So entranced by the extent of Jeffery's unique tattage -not to mention the charming contradiction of his preppy ensemble- I found it quite difficult to keep my hand steady and my celebriwhoreitis under control.

Thankfully for her and me, only LC's (ahem, underwhelming) eponymous collection was present at yesterday's show...

*unfortunately, the Ardistia representatives wouldn't allow me to take any photographs of what was hands-down my favorite collection of the entire show. So that you could still enjoy the view of one of their Mouret-inspired designs, I included an image from their website.

29 comments:

Alexandra said...

How I am fascinated with that Iódice piece!

Samantha said...

That trench is phenomenal!!

Kristen said...

That Ardistia dress is simply fantastic...too bad no stores here in DC carry the line! Hopefully your post will inspire a GTown/U Street boutique or two.

blackpencilskirt said...

Structure is by far the best thing about the last fashion year. I am so sick of seeing girls that let hours in the gym and lettuce-based lunches go to waste by hiding their size 2 waists underneath blousy, mu-mu type dresses.

impressed said...

I love Jeffery!!! He looks too cute in that bright sweater!

This post is really great, and like Kristen said, hopefully you can convince a local boutique to pick up some of these lines. Well done.

Anonymous said...

what a cool event! my favorite is the mackage coat. who sells them besides saks?

Anonymous said...

What color nail polish do you have on your nails in the first photo? Love!

Pinkie said...

Love the Chace and Iódice. Nothing beats good structure.

glammy said...

Jeffery just looks more humble now than he did on the show and that's a *good* thing.

The Mackage and Ardistia are my favorirtes. How expensive are they, if I may ask?

karen m. said...

I'm surprised LC wasn't there. Seems like she should have been, this being her line's first showing and all. Hm.

Really great post. Can't wait to read the boutique interviews.

Anonymous said...

im so excited the structured silhouettes are coming back because i for one am done with trapeeze tent dresses!!!! :)

stuck in l.a. said...

I love that last skirt! Does it stick out on its own, or is there a layer or something underneath keeping it up? This trip was so worth it - look at all the new designers you found out about!

Anonymous said...

those LC dresses look like JC penneys prom dresses...yuck. everything else is fab though!

Anonymous said...

the strapless dress is drop dead gorgeous

Teek said...

Second the question about the underpinnings on that last skirt! What's the fabric?

And love the Mackage trench. It's actually a wearable interpretation of steam punk.

Anonymous said...

Jeffery looks adorable!

Johanna said...

Anonymous 10:50-

It's "Vintage Vamp" by MAC -- their nail polish, I've recently discovered, goes on and stays on better than any other I've tried. I'm hooked!

Stuck in L.A./Teek-

Nope, there was nothing underneath the skirt holding it up. It was this really thick, stiff fabric that kept the pleats in place at kicked out the volume all on its own. The woman in the booth was actually wearing this skirt and showed me how, even after an entire afternoon of sitting down, it still maintained its volume. I want one in every color!

best,
J

Prêt-à-Porter P said...

the structured clothing are beautiful. the grey trench and the handbags are very nice.
and jeffrey!!!

ms. spinach said...

i'm dying! everything is gor-jus!

especially *that skirt*....

incredulous said...

red satin WHATS?

reader in midtown said...

the colors are so rich and delicious, especially on that Chace dress and Jack Rabbit bag (red one). For an amateur, your shots aren't half bad either ;-)

crafty kim said...

love your taste!

Anonymous said...

now this is what I call covering an event. I'm glad you kept yourself out of the photos. pretty as you are, sometimes we need a break. great job, J.

manhattan_darling said...

Seeing Jeffery gives me such a happy feeling! Was he nice?

Dee said...

That Stella & Jamie Spring 08 collection looks like it was designed for you. Beautiful clothes!

Anonymous said...

that raspberry colored strapless dress is exactly what I want for an event coming up - do you know how much it cost or how I can get in touch with the designer? I did some searching on Chace but didn't find anything!!

Caroline said...

I was one of the many people it seems Johanna met on Monday at the Coterie. She was a delight and showed a real respect and passion for the art of fashion. DC is fortunate to have her!

Lady Tiara said...

i can't stop looking at that ardistia dress. it's so amazing. and i love the structured skirt, although i wonder if the stiff fabric would be uncomfortable to sit in.

Anonymous said...

i'm with "reader in midtown" that jack rabbit bag in the red/burgundy is delish. i don't think that ones out yet? checking online... www.thejackrabbitcollection.com

they are selling the quilted one from lucy liu's show. it's cute.