The Coterie: a structured affair

So this...Got me into here:

No wait, here:

And once inside, I realized my Chocolate Factory comparison from last week may have been written with my tongue pressed a little too firmly in my cheek.

This place was, in all seriousness, a veritable wonderland for anyone who loves to talk, look, buy and breathe fashion.

I expected all along to gravitate toward ASJiNE standbys like Robert Rodriguez, Mint and Karen Zambos Vintage Couture, but as the hours ticked by and my red satin flats logged another lap, I found myself no longer looking for a familiar name on a placard but rather drawn toward uniquely-cut pieces, the majority of which, it turned out, came from a crop of brilliant, unfamiliar lines like Stella & Jamie, Erik Hart and Form.

Considering the volume of information and inspiration with which all this Coterie-ing hath filled my head, I decided it'd be better for you in terms of keeping your 'scroll finger' from developing a callus and for me in terms of not losing my mind trying to weave everything into a single cohesive post, that I break down my 180+ photos, my eight identified trends and my five newly-in-love-with designer discoveries into more manageable, one-per-day portions.

Today's focus is on a hugely popular trend I hope is here and here to stay: structure.

Enjoy.

Oh, and please, try to remember that a decent camera does not a decent photographer make.

From the stiff sleeves to the hard-pleated neckline to the giveless fabric - I found in this dress a piece of pure, structured perfection.

Ardistia*

The pretty party frock's perfect date -- a structured silk topper.
Biba

So strictly structured I half expected to find hinges -not a zipper- on its side.
Chace

No double-sided tape required on this securely stayin'-in-place kimono-sleeve dress.
Candela NYC

Even the handbags have lost their slouch
Jack Rabbit

What I imagine the Dita von Teese of the Victorian Age might have worn on her way home from work...
Mackage

Hervé Léger + Salvador Dali = strikingly structured strapless.
Iódice

The wearable-for-work version of Miu Miu's Spring '08 structured runway skirt
Chloe & Reese

And because I'm an unabashed fan of reality TV and all the people it has launched into semi-stardom, looksies at whosies I bumped into while making my way over to the Anlo booth:
So entranced by the extent of Jeffery's unique tattage -not to mention the charming contradiction of his preppy ensemble- I found it quite difficult to keep my hand steady and my celebriwhoreitis under control.

Thankfully for her and me, only LC's (ahem, underwhelming) eponymous collection was present at yesterday's show...

*unfortunately, the Ardistia representatives wouldn't allow me to take any photographs of what was hands-down my favorite collection of the entire show. So that you could still enjoy the view of one of their Mouret-inspired designs, I included an image from their website.

Who will be this season's Kara Saun/Daniel V./Laura?

As anticipated as tonight's premiere of 'Project Runway' has been for my friends and me, I can't help but go into this season a little jaded and a lot sure that the designer behind whom I'll throw my love and support will fall victim to the same didn't-see-it-coming demise of Kara Saun, Daniel V. and Laura from PR installments one, two and three, respectively.

Before I continue on this topic, allow me a brief digression.

A few days ago, through an investigative tip, I came across a scathing critique of my blog and me. At first, I was pretty upset by the author's assertions that I wasn't "fashion-forward enough" to be proffering style advice to the women of DC, that my sense of style could be boiled down to an Alice+Olivia mini dress and a pair of Agent Provocateur bloomies, and most frustrating of all, that I "confuse good design with seasonal trends and a love of fashion with single-minded acquisitiveness."

The more I thought about these accusations, the more I wah-wah-wah-ed to friends about these accusations, the more I read and reread these accusations, the more upset I got.

To distract myself, I began thinking about this, my upcoming Project Runway post. Rolling various ideas over and over in my head, I thought about what direction it might take, what tone it might have, which moments in which season I might allude to, etc. All of sudden, somewhere between reminiscing about Santino Rice's Michael Kors impersonation and shuddering at thought of Wendy Pepper's general bitchiness, something clicked and my anger began to dissipate.

The author behind that critique was dead-wrong about most of her conclusions but she was right about one of them -- I'm not very fashion-forward. I'm just not. I don't look at a blouse or a jacket or a pair of shoes and find myself drawn to it because it triggers in me some kind of intellectual curiosity or because I "get" what that particular designer was trying to achieve with his/her collection. In the finale of each seasons one through three of PR, I sat confounded as Tim, Heidi, Michael, Nina, et. al, praised Jay's brilliant use of layered knits, Chloe's comfy-fresh take on femininity and (deep breath) the "seductive edginess" of Jeffery's white leather short shorts and skull-emblazoned blazers. Certainly I don't subscribe to a dismissive Andie-esque point of view when it comes to a design those who know more than I do about this subject consider "genius," on the contrary, I'm in awe of people who have an eye like Anna's or Scott's for recognizing the beyond-the-obvious aesthetic quality of a Dries van Noten coat, a Proenza Schouler dress or any other designer/non-designer piece that hints at an innovative new direction fashion might take.

As is the case in most areas of my life, I don't use my head to discern among those items of clothing I will actively pursue, those I actively won't and those that don't even register a blip on my like-it/don't-like-it radar. Instead, my selections fall where they may according to one criterion, something I like to call, "the heart-flutter test." Essentially, does it or doesn't it make me lose a bit of my breath when I see it, feel it, smell it or touch it? If it does, I'm all over it like an unhappily married partner on a pretty young associate. If it doesn't, then I move past it until I find something else that does evoke that feeling.

Just like Cathy Horynn said in her audio review of Paris Fashion week last month, some designers are virtually impossible for a woman not to love (Lanvin, Dior) and some take a bit of thoughtful consideration to appreciate (Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton). At present, I fall firmly and almost exclusively into the former category, though I am finding out through my burgeoning love for Alexander McQueen (and interest in not-typically-me dresses like this one) that I may one day strike a more even balance between the two.

When that does happen, when I do start to appreciate fashion as opposed to react to the prettiness of it, maybe I'll be better equipped to predict which Project Runway contestant will come out on top. Until then, I'll continue to align myself with the designer whose pieces most make my heart jump -- like those you'll see clipped below from Kara Saun, Daniel V. and most especially, m'lovely lady Laura.

Kara Saun, Season 1:

Daniel Vosovic, Season 2:

Laura Bennett, Season 3: